Last Summer Remembered

Last year I took a trip with my daughter and grandson. I neglected to write about it at the time but I wanted to upload some pictures and record some memories while they are still in mind.

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Dinner at the Resort

Japanese people love to visit hot spring resorts and take the hot baths. Often various minerals in the water are a boon to our health. I enjoy the food and scenery more than the bath, but it’s fun to take a trip with grandkids.

We stopped at the new “Monnonoke Museum” in Miyoshi where we can see exhibits about the yokai (imaginary creatures that inhabit the world around us.) There were some fun things ot do for kids as well as Edo era exhibits of scrolls and objects that portray these yokai. 

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Eiji becomes a yokai!

On the way, we stopped at an old hardware store that had been in business for three generations and was full of all kinds of neat junk. We enjoyed looking and bought a few things from the friendly owner, Hanazono-san.

 

Then we stopped at Maniwa where we had arranged to be taught “kusaki-zome”, natural dying from famous artist Yoko Kano.

I made a small handkerchief and Eri choose to dye a long scarf. Eiji was patient as we worked on it. It was lots of fun and I recommend you visit this shop-gallery in Okayama prefecture!

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Old-fashioned Postbox

Yoko Kano has put the little old town of Katsuyama on the map since she began creating original noren banners for each shop along the street!

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We enjoyed dinner at our inn, Hanayashiki, in Yunotsu Onsen.

The next day it was raining, so we drove straight to Misasa Onsen (hot springs).

On the way, we were getting hungry and I had a headache, so Eri googled ramen restaurants nearby. We found this great place that makes the soup with “gyu-kotsu” stock! It was really good!

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Japanese Penny Candy Shop

There was a street of quaint shops including a shooting gallery and a “dagashi-ya” penny candy store. Eiji chose some candy in a little straw basket.

The last day, we searched for a unique used bookstore in Okayama City. Eri was thrilled to find it and meet the owner!

 

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All in all we had a good time and I’m glad it was sprinkling instead of the usual blazing hot August days!

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Eiji with Kitaro and other cute yokai friends

I want to add more about the yokai. They are mischievous spirits, hob-goblins that inhabit the woods or stream or work some influence on our lives. An important and intriguing part of Japanese folklore, they are mentioned as early as 772 in the Shoku Nihongi saying that Shinto purification was necessary because yokai were appearing in the imperial court.

「Gegege no Kitaro images」の画像検索結果

Yokai were popularized in an anime series from around 1960 by manga artist Mizuki Shigeru in his “Gegege Kitaro” comics. (above image) We were lucky to get to see the exhibition on his work at he Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum.

  • One of the more famous yokai that appear in folk literature is the kappa. Kappa are amphibious demons that live in the river. They have webbed feet and a tortoise like shell on their back.
Ancient text shows illustrations of kappa

The kappa can bring calamity such as causing someone to drown but are also capable of good deeds like helping a farmer to irrigate his field. WE think of the kappa as rather cute little spirits today.

Someday I’d like to take my grandsons to Tottori, the hometown of artist Mizuki  to see the Mizuki Shigeru Museum and various figures throughout the town. There is even a nighttime parade of yokai spirits! If you are interested in monsters, Japanese folklore or anime, you might enjoy visiting there!

Quaint Old Town

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Hinoki Gallery of Dye and Weaving, Katsuyama, Maniwa

Last week we visited Yunogo Hot Springs (湯郷温泉)in Mimasaka, Okayama prefecture. We stayed at the Chikutei Inn. There is a toy museum with a large collection of vintage music boxes there. There is a Music Box Concert once every 90 minutes. WE enjoyed that part of the museum most of all so be sure not to miss it!

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We drove back into town for an unremarkable lunch. We parked by the City office and walked along a back street trying to  find some Showa-era shops. We finally gave up but saw an old sign for the Mimasaka Historical Museum. The problem is, no one in the town had ever heard of it!

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Former HIstorical Museum in Mimasaka (old bank bldg)

Finally we got directions and started off. We got to the general area and dropped into a ceramics shop to inquire. The owner, Nakayama-san was very friendly and showed us where the Museum used to be!

Nakayama-san insisted on serving us tea. We had coffee and Chinese tea, which she studies, in an old warehouse converted into an event hall. There was even a baby grand piano for concerts. She says there are classes in English, pilates, Chinese tea and singing.

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After this nice break, we went to our inn. Unfortunately, the dinner was not so great. Our room was lovely. The most remarkable thing, however was the outdoor bath. In Japan, the outdoor bath is shut off from view of others but usually has a beautiful view of mountains or sea. This time, we had to climb steep uneven stone steps, winding up the side of a hill. It isn’t easy at my age!

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Outdoor Bath at Chikutei, Yunogo Hot Springs

Still, this was an exciting experience for me. I nicknamed this the “ObakeYashiki Bath!” (Haunted House Bath)

The next day, we started off early, taking the Yonago Road to the first exit at Kuse. The old Senkyo Elementary School, completed in 1907, still stands and has been used as a location in many films. (八墓村 蛍の墓 など)

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Senkyo Junjo Shogako, Maniwa
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Opening Ceremony, 1907(Metal Prongs on roof were removed during WWII as part of the iron drive in war effort)

The curator, Mr. Nisshu, showed us some interesting things, then left us to wander around the building.  I definitely recommend you stop here! It brings back a forgotten era!

Quaint Old Katsuyama: Town of Noren Banners

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The beautiful banners, or noren, at the front of each shop on this street are the creation of Yoko Kano, dyer and weaver. Her gallery, Hinoki, is located here. we were able to meet and talk with her. If you call a week in advance, you can participate in a dying workshop. The shop is open from 10:00 to 17:00, closed Wednesdays.(0867-44-2013)

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Hinoki Gallery, Artist and master dyer and weaver, Yoko Kano(加納 蓉子)

I purchased some coasters, but there were many lovely bags, noren and other items on sale. I hope to visit here again. Another interesting feature for me is that she has a “used book corner” in the shop!

We were getting hungry and didn’t feel like soba ..and just then saw a menu board for a cafe that had ice cream too! So we climbed many stone steps to reach the Hishio kissa Coffee Shop. It was worth it! We really enjoyed the Hashed Beef plate and our ice cream, too!

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Hashed Beef at Hishio (ひしお喫茶 0867-44-5880)

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Katsuyama is are about 2 and a half hours from Hiroshima on the Chugoku expressway.  Last year we stayed at the Yubara  Hot Springs just north of here. We loved the inn called Hana Yashiki (花やしき)as everyone was so kind and there is a great rooftop bath which you can reserve for private use for 50 minutes!

 

We met and talked with Mr. Hatsumoto at his souvenir shop.He and his wife take part in the local festival, she dancing and he singing. So their noren banner features Japanese dancers! He was so nice to us!

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I will go to Katsuyama with my daughters some day! It is a lovely and picturesque old town!

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with the very kind staff at Hana Yashiki , 2018