Visit to Kobo Dam (高暮ダム)

Kobo Dam, Shobara, Hiroshima

I first met Hiroo when I was asked to give a speech to the senior classes at his school during Human Rights week in December 1990. He insisted on treating me to lunch afterwards and during lunch he told me about a group that was forming to look into the history of forced labor at Kobo Dam in Hiroshima.

We ended up attending the first meeting and he gave me a ride home! After that we started seeing each other and eventually married. Although I didn’t attend any more meetings, I read the booklet published by the Citizen’s Group to Investigate Korean Labor at Kobo Dam.

Construction began on the dam in 1940 and it was completed in 1949 but not without a great cost in human life. During the war, most able-bodied men were conscripted to fight in Asia, causing a labor shortage in Japan. The solution was to recruit or in many cases forcibly sweep up Koreans and bring them to Japan to do the most difficult and dangerous jobs, particularly in coal mines or construction.

The story that stayed in my mind was how that tons of cement were dropped from a height in building the dam. Before dropping it, a warning siren went off so those below could get out of the way. The construction site was very noisy however and some workers didn’t hear it. They were buried alive under all that cement. As we step out on the dam, we can’t but think of those buried beneath our feet.

Investigate Committee’s Jitsukuni san shows us Kobo Dam

Before leaving to see the mine, I was able to contact a representative of the Investigate Korean Labor group, Jitsukuni Yoshinori, who offered to guide us to the dam. This was most fortunate as we could never have made it to the dam on our own. The usual route was blocked so Jitsukuni-san drove us a long distance up a very narrow mountain road. It was scary and we encountered a mother and child wild boar in the middle of the road, then minutes later a stag ran across in front of the car and climbed up the steep slope.

Many workers brought from Korea were ill-treated and couldn’t bear the harsh working conditions. Those who tried to escape in the mountains had no place to go and were usually recaptured. Then they were made an example of by hanging them upside down, beating them so severely that some died.

Remains of Korean laborers recovered near Kobo Dam

Around 1994 a unmarked burial site was discovered with the bones of many Koreans who died in accidents or from illness during the construction. These were returned to Korea for reburial in 2003, when a monument was erected for them there. Even now the Japanese government refuses to admit that these workers were forced labor or to compensate families.

Monument to Korean Lives Lost in Construction, Kobo Dam (with Yoshinori Jitsukuni)
” Yamashiro Tomoe, writer ” Inscription on reverse side of Monument 1995

Finally we were shown the monument to Koreans who died in the dam construction. I had read an essay by Yamashiro Tomoe about Kobo Dam. (高暮ダムを思う)I was surprised to see her name carved on the back of the monument as one of the contributors. She must have stood where I was standing when it was dedicated in 1995.

Student of Minzoku Gakko Makes Offering at he Memorial Service
Investigate Committee Leader, Yoshinori Jitsukuni (高暮ダム
強制連行を調査する会の実国義範さん)

We really appreciate the help of Mr. Jitsukuni for teaching us so much about the Dam and the forced labor of Koreans there. I am still reading through all the pages of information he sent me! Unfortunately I was unable to attend the Memorial Service for Victims of the Dam Construction which was held on November 7th this year. I hope I can go next year. But only if Jitsukuni san is kind enough to drive us again! No way I can make it up there myself.

Apple grower on “Ringo Road” ( she gave me a daikon radish!)
Hiroo and I enjoyed a one night stay at Kimita Hot Springs near the Dam

Hiroo and I are very grateful to Jitsukuni-san. We learned a lot about the Dam and on the way home we traveled through Apple Road and bought delicious apples from a farmer there! And we stayed at Kimita Hot Springs.

Coal Mine Accident in Ube

Memorial to VIctims of Chousei Coal Mine Accident (長生炭坑水没慰霊碑) Ube, Yamaguchi-ken

138 Korean Miners Among the Dead (February 3, 1942)

Finally we are fully-vaccinated and wanted to have an overnight trip to the next prefecture. It happened to be our 29th wedding anniversary on July 31st so we made reservations to stay at the Shimonoseki Grand Hotel and have a full course French dinner. It was lucky as the hotel is right next to the Karato Fish Market. (唐戸市場)which Hiroo was eager to visit.

Hiroo told me there was a coal mine in Ube (Yamaguchi-ken) and I found there is a Coal Mining Museum by Tokiwa Park. Luckily , I kept searching online and found a homepage about Chousei Coal Mine and the collapse of the underwater mine that occurred in 1942,

The mine had had previous incidents of flooding or collapsing supports so many Japanese miners were afraid to work there. Of course, during wartime many men were drafted to fight and so the mine needed more workers. Koreans were either recruited or , in many cases, forcibly brought to Japan to work in mines or in the construction of dams. This was very dangerous work and many lost heir lives.

Two Piers are all that remains at Chousei MIne, Ube

The Chousei Mine was under the sea. Now all that is left are two pillars in the ocean referred to as “piers”. Originally there was a long pier and tracks to carry coal to waiting ships. On the morning of February 2, 1942, the mine collapsed letting in billows of sea water and only a few of the miners had time to get out.

Of the 183 dead , 136 were Korean laborers (forced labor). At the time , these Korean miners were housed in barracks encompassed by a 3.6 meter- high fence and only allowed to walk the short distance to the mine entrance. This accident was not reported or was only mentioned in local newspapers saying “most of the miners managed to escape.”

In 1982, a memorial was erected and only the families of the Japanese miners were contacted to attend the dedication. Though there is a record of all the dead, no names were inscribed on the monument. it was built adjacent to a softball field overlooking the ocean and piers. The reason for constructing it was to appease the spirits of the dead so no harm would come to children playing on the field. (Japanese superstition!)

1982 Mnument to CHousei MIne VIcitms

Through the website I was able to contact the “Keep the History of Chousei Disaster in our Hearts ” (長生炭坑に“水非常”を歴史に刻む会)I promptly received an answer and was contacted by Yoko Inoue who offered to guide us to the new Memorial and explain the history to us.

Kizamu Kai member Inoue Yoko

We visited the monument with names of all the victims, Japanese and Korean inscribed there. Two pillars reminiscent of the two piers represent Korean victims separately from Japanese victims. The ” Keep History” group found an old list of workers’ names from 1940 and sent out letters to all the Korean vicitms’ families. The addresses in Korea were old so there was no telling how many relatives would actually receive the letter.

Korean relatives hold Memorial 73years on

I was amazed at the attempt to contact people after over 50 years. Of the 118 letters mailed out, there were 17 replies that first year. The surviving family members were invited to come to the sea to observe a commemorative service for the victims. I was touched to read the translation of one letter where a Korean woman wrote ” My mother was pregnant with me when my father left Korea. He may not have even known. We never heard from him again. We didn’t know how he died. So I am grateful to know how and what day he died. I would love to come to pay respect to him.”

Guides fo r the day, Inoue Yoko and Matsumoto-san

Later the inclusive monument was constructed and victims families come from Korea and Japan to Ube every year on February 3rd for a memorial service. I hope to read all the materials Yoko gave me and to visit there for the 80th Year since disaster Memorial Service in 2022.

From Ube we visited the Tokiwa Mine Museum which had no mention of the diaster or of forced labor in the mines, which is typical for government-funded museums and organizations. They want to deny the fact of forced labor from occupied Korea or Chinese war hostages.

Fireworks from Restaurant View French Food

Reaching Shimoseki at about 3:30, we checked in to our hotel . We enjoyed our dinner and were very lucky that there was a fireworks display held that night.

The next day we visited the Karato Fish Market and bought fresh octopus and squid. Then we enjoyed choosing sushi one piece at a time for lunch. It was a very popular spot.

Sushi at Karato Ichiba FIsh Market, Shimonoseki

Finally Hiroo took me to one used bookstore , Azusa Books (梓 書店 083-232-4100) He said it was probably just “manga” but we were both pleasantly surprised to find it had so many books on history and social issues. It is a great place to visit. Owner, Tomoko Tsukioka has been in business for 40 years, 10 at this location.

HIroo talks with Tsukioka-san at Azusa Bookstore

With Tomoko Tsukioka at Azusa Books

We enjoyed talking and she helped me find interesting books. When she heard it was our anniversary , she served us coffee! The most amazing thing was when she handed me one book and said, this is really a good book.

I found it!! (ずっと探していた!)

I was speechless as I had read it 30 years ago and often searched for it but had forgotten the title. This was just amazing and thrilling. She insisted on giving the book to me as a present! I hope to visit this shop with Eri some day.

Books I bought